BEAUTY BAZAR

Beauty Bazar: on-line products guide, with over one thousand technical sheets accompanied by pictures of fashions and products, it provides a full and detailed overview of the sector and is a complete multimedia guide for everybody, professional or not.

HAIR PERMANENT COLOR

L' use of the colorings for l' embellishment of the hair goes back to the first civil peoples. The Egyptians used vegetable colors, the Jews united all' henné l' indigo (to correct the color red), the Romen used combs of lead that dipped nell' vinegar to dye of black the grey hair or you whiten. Only to the end of the past century itself ebbe the discovery of a certain synthesis of products of number, that the parafenilendiamina, capable of to to be used in the dye for hair. The colorazione had a large development to the end of the years 40 later on to the change of the "modus vivendi". The continuous studies carried to changes, considerable enhancement in the compositions and enormous progress towards a more acquired safety that allow a large stability and held in the time of the color obtained. In fact the phenomena of sensitization, a rather frequent time, I am nowadays rare. This thanks all' enormous search done and to the results obtained in the field of the synthesis of new molecules (verified under every appearance from the point of view tossicologico) and to the new procedures of purification that allow of the considerable standard of purity of the substances coloring. The large stability and held in the time of the color obtained artificially on a hair is possible alone thanks to the substances of synthesis called "coloring d' oxidation" or even more correctly "forerunners". The forerunners are substances that come make react between of them directly on the hair with formation "in place" of the coloring. This coloring is the oxidation of reactions of result and condensazione that have alone place in environment alcalino (mainly ammoniaca) and in presence of an oxidizing (water I oxygenate). L' water I oxygenate has also the purpose of decolorare the hair (destroying the pigment of melanina) to give back the action to to be colored in a range of colors extremely variety and spacious of tones. The ottenibile resulted it is in function of several parameters: – Type, nature and concentration of the bases and copulatori – pH of the reaction – time of application – quantity and type of oxidizing – nature of the support (cream - gel - liquid). An exact dosage I expressed and a correct manner d' employment can ensure an effect schiarente, covering of the white hair, change of the natural color of the hair, dyed fantasy and tones of different nature, stability and lasted some color, namely the QUALITY richiestealle "DYES TO OXIDATION".

TONE ON TONE &… SHAMPOOS COLOR
DIRECT COLORS DIRECT
LASTING REFLECTIONS

The "direct colors" native with l' requirement of to give reflected fantasy to the natural hair and like alternative to the colorazione to oxidation, I am itself via developed road and perfected. At present they answer to three precise requirements dell' user: – To give reflected to the natural hair – to cover (to camouflage) the first grey hair or you whiten – to mask the yellow color of the white hair. The color stretches out to eliminate itself with the successive washings avoiding so a precise colorazione. The colorazione that "does not pledge" the well-known slogan from millions of women is become. The worn colorings in the direct colorazione contain substances coloring true and actual (their application happens, however, without oxidation and decolorazione of the hair) and other substances, particularly some complex anion- cationici to the end of to obtain a greater connection of the colorazione and an enhancement of the cosmetic quality of the hair: pettinabilità, brillantezza... Even though the class of the coloring nitrates and their been derived of substitution costituisca the class more mattering some worn colorings in the direct colorazione, come too used belonging to colorings to other chemical classes: – Coloring they love antrachinonici and azoici – coloring eterociclico – coloring metalliferi (complex organ- metallic). Today the colors given to the hair is not more opaque and little natural: the world of the colorings is itself developed, formulations of easy employment use themselves and for every 7 (seven) colors to oxidation apply themselves 3 (three) direct colors or shampoos coloring.

BLEACHING

It is known that the natural colorazione of the hair is had to to the melanina that it is found in the cortex of the hair in big granules and in granules itself. The first are responsible of the black colorazione or brown of the hair (eumelanina), the seconds of the blond colorazione reddish (feomelanina). The melanina is a pigment that it is formed dall to leave' love-acid-across complex tirosina reactions enzimatiche. For decolorare the hair dissolves the melanina in you are contained so as to to give back the clearer. L' oxidizing much more used is l' water I oxygenate, but for decolorare more to fund (platinatura) come also used some persali (persolfati) to develop l' action dell' water I oxygenate. It remembers that it "decolorazione" is a violent reaction and, in the destructive trial, besides the melanina partially can be involved the disolfuro and the connections peptidici that are the constituent connections of the fiber cheratinica. To this partial depolimerizzazione s' adds an alteration of the surface of the hair that will result more spugnoso, fragile, opaque. The continuous searches in this live carried to a good one put to point of products thanks all' employment of special appearances autoemulsionabili to high effect protective both all and use of cationici (resin and tensioattivi) complex (anion-cationici) and special capable substances of to return the initial hair his feature: Pettinabilità, shine, corposità. The DECOLORANTI are constituted from two parts:– a solution or emulsion of water I oxygenate stabilized and to different titles to mix the moment dell' use with- oliocrema - dust. Oil is a solution basificata (for ammoniaca) of solvents and capable gelatificanti of to give a transparent gel with the solution of water I oxygenate. The transparency allows to follow l' effect schiarente of the product a time applied on the hair.

OILS
It is a solution basificata (for ammoniaca) disolventi and capable gelatificanti of to give a geltrasparente with the solution of acquaossigenata. The transparency allows of seguirel' effect schiarente of the product a voltaapplicato on the hair. Cream colored

CREAMS
Sono basificate (on NH3) of the type usatonelle dyes d' oxidation, but without their colorantinella formulation. Generally questecreme are provided of a high power protective eristrutturante of the hair. Bleaching Powder are produced to altopotere decolorante since contain deipersali (persolfati alcalini) capable of aumentareil be able oxidizing dell' water I oxygenate concui come mixed. The presence besides disostanze rigonfianti allows to obtain easily applicable uncataplasma. In these last years for different justifications siè developed and intensified l' use delledecolorazioni and of the superschiarenti: blows of sun, emphasized and no, balayages warm conriflessi, acconciature punkeggianti. . . But also other requirements, that the desire delladonna of to be however blond and farsieseguire 3/4 turns l' year the mèches senzaessere bound to the punctual one "monthly service" pervia of the ricrescita how demands the color.

HAIR COLOR DEVELOPERS

When it am discussed to color, decolorare, to lighten, a good percentage of the prodottopreparato for l' application is costituitadall' oxidizing: generally water I oxygenate in composition with other substances so as to to obtain an emulsion fluid cremosa. Such cremosità ensures a velocemiscelazione, an easy application eun' excellent connection to the capigliaturapermettendo an enhancement of the proprietàcosmetiche of the compound and therefore of the final result. Some patent you are deposited to ensure it not riproducibilità of some stable soluzioniestremamente and that ensure that lecolorazioni to oxidation do not presentinoindesiderati turnings.

PERMS AND NEUTRALISERS

In the last years it has seen the consacrazione of the persisting: above all of the persisting "free" and of the persisting used like "support" to the lines d' acconciatura. Persisting it has it the task of altering the configuration of the hair while this is maintained under tension in a position curled. L' arricciatura so obtained stable all results' water for change of the connections present disolfuro in the substance cheratinica of the hair. The trial permanentante was uncovered about a fifty of years does and consta of 3 phases: 1) to give back the plastic hair for disruption of the connections disolfuro 2) to give a shape coiling under tension the hair given back plastic on the bigodini 3) restore the bridges disolfuro to give again the hair its elasticity. In the last 20 years have developed new formulas always except for aggressive for the hair. The first two phases, for example, were conducts to warm to provide the low reactivity of the bisolfito. Today persisting them they make run back it to the tioli (or mercaptani), organic substances in which the reactivity is such to agree that the trial permanentante comes driver to cold. L' course of the reaction of the tiolo on what installment of the hair is very complex and depends from different factors that the pH, the concentration, the time of pose, the condition of the hair. The tioli more commonly used I am: – Acid tioglicolico: is the most used one in the lotions permanentanti because is between the except for irritating and allergenici. The law limits the quantity to employ in the formulations to the all’8% and pH 10, because unamaggiore percentage can injure the strutturacapillare and superficial;– acid tiolattico: except for profit, has disagreeable smell;– acid tioglicolato of glicerolo: little irritating and making aware, but with a force curling meager. An exact choice of the concentration of the tioloe of the pH gives to the chemical formulatore the possibilitàdi to get ready lotions permanentanti of forzedifferenziate each of which better sipresta to the sought result ("frisure" moltostretta or to "boucles" wide) and to the type of capellosul as it is wanted to intervene. The nature of the hair plays a role moltoimportante in the choice of the type of lozionepermanentante (fine hair, big, colored. . .). To improve the cosmetic result final version in the lotions additional substances come (resins cationiche, tensioattivi cationici, anfoteri) chemigliorano the capacity of the persisting and laqualità of the hair rendendoli more: – Nervous (effect volume) – shining – combing – full-bodied.

HAIR STRAIGHTENERS

Straining they are expressed him with the profitable medesimesostanze of the liquid curling, but with a support in cream. To give shape "right" is in fact necessary that the hair remain filled with substances that help to maintain the stem strained it the shape.

RESTRUCTURING LOTIONS

In 1970 they are native the "restoring" with the discovery of some molecules that itself polimerizzano all' inside of the widespread structure for effect of the heat. I am l' ideal solution for hair made aware and ruined from artificial treatments or from the atmospheric agents. After the varied treatments permanentanti, decoloranti, coloring, is well that the hair are rinsed with acid solutions to the end of to eliminate l' oxygen and l' remaining alcalinità (organic idroperossido) that could produce further sensitization and so to harm the colorazione for how much pertains l' uniformity and the capacity for it persisting.

HAIRCARE TREATMENTS

The better resulted of cosmetic treatment siottengono with lunione of a shampoo, I adapt to the specific anomalies, to the successive treatment than pu to be lotion, cream or foam. Lequilibrio between the important components to the end of to reach the better resulted above all with the treatments for the dandruff, the fat one, the strong perspiration and the fall, but also for the too hair until, weak, too much impoverished and disseccati.

GELS

In the last years l' Cosmetic Industry has pledged to research found to maintain the hair in shape to long. Here the GELS. Their wide use is had to to the fact that the modern gels allow to stiffen, structures, give volume, to give back shining the hair giving also "l' wet effect" and allowing to model easily the hair according to the shape wanted. With a choice profumazione according to the varied flavors, the base of the produced gels is of habit.

FINISH

Produced specially studied to revitalize, to smooth, to model, to sculpt and to finish off the acconciature. Expressed in foams, gels, oils and spray, according to the most recent tendenzadelle businesses produttrici I am places on the market with a packaging that them accomunaad a' sole "line" for better evidenziarela their end.

HAIR FOAMS

With the birth of the acconciature "free", it l is born' requirement of to use an applicable prodottofacilmente, distribuibile, that you help, during the work of mass in shape, to dress up the hair in not too locks grosses: here the FOAMS. The foam contains a smaller liquid part of substances and the varied bubble, breaking itself, favor l' asciugatura without to add other liquid. They position perfectly and itself localizzanodove is wanted: alone on the points or on the tuft, on the front ecc. To acconciatura finished, a small alone partedistribuita on the points, allows to obtain a special effect to "ciuffetti". The foam allows also of to obtain more easily a special sistemadi asciugatura called "touching" because obtained using alone the fingers. The foam is composed from what swollen propellente the bubble (composed from tensioattivi) and when these break itself the polimeri plixanti solidify themselves with much more speed on the hair with respect to those dissolved in basic idroalcolica. The bubble, that for them nature I am spherical, facilitate the passage of the comb avoiding l' further addition of agents disentangling that for them nature stretch out to gain weight and to weigh down. I obviate that in the development of the studies delleformulazioni is expected to introduce itself in the foams also of the colorings that, automatic distributing itself on the hair together to the resins, develop the double function of plixare and riflessare. Further studies are allowing the sviluppodi foams treating, soothing, with effettispecifici in the you grow fond that the dandruff or reappeared it swift of the fat natural one.

HAIR CONDITIONERS - MASKS

The practice of the shampoo behaves a hygienic result of character to which often comes associated a cosmetic function of type, abbellente, treating with l' specific use of products applied after the shampoo. These products divide in two classes: – RINCES (dall' English "to rince" = to rinse) – NOT RINCES. Between the products "rinces" there are: – Fluid balsami – cream colored balsami – balsami mousse. • THE fluid balsami I am generally formulaticon appearances autoemulsionanti associated to tensioattivi cationici. Like specific substances making conditional come employed: – Polimeri cationici – proteolisati of what installment or collageno – silicone – been derived some lanolin. These balsami have acid reaction (pH from 3 to 5) and, working on the structure of the hair, of it rinserrano the scales cheratiniche. The hair will take on therefore a solider structure, will be smoother, diamond and more easily pettinabile. • THE balsami in cream some type are produced fluid deibalsami, but richer in componentigrassi and treating. They have the advantage of to to be applied locally on the part of the hair that much more requires of a treatment restoring (ex. points of the hair). • THE balsami mousse or foam aerosol sonoformulazioni that you were moved to point alpha of to avoid phenomena of appesantimento, riscontrabili above all on fat hair efini. The special type of confezionamentopermette of to express produced except for rich incera and fat, riducendo therefore the risk of to weigh down the hair. For l' action restoring I am impiegaticomplessi anion-cationici
characterized high dalloro be able treating in the cares dellacheratina of the hair and for thoughtlessness dellaloro action.

HAIR BULB MASK

Produced being about recent formulation what power to to be considered like l' evoluzionedei balsami for a more specific intervention peril treatment of the anomalies of the hair. The suspension in refined creams profitable diprincipi allows to have ideal disposizioneun support to make yes that the sostanzetrattanti have the possibility to adhere aicapelli in optimal manner. Varied COMPOSIZIONEI starts profitable (ammorbidenti, astringenti, gaining weight, seboequilibranti) sonoderivati from: – CRIED what l' ivy, the corn, the birch, saves it, ecc. – LANDS, what l' clay. – SULPHUR COLLOIDALE – NATURAL OLI – APPEARANCES ADDOLCENTI.

SHAMPOOS

The shampoo is a mixture of sostanzetensioattive to action more or except for foaming, emulsionante and solubilizzante (cleaning) time to remove the filthy and the impurity that deposit themselves on the leather capelluto and on the cuticola. Quest' last is l' outside cover of the hair and is its rugosità to detain the filthy piùvario: dust, sebo, been derived organic or minerals and fragments cheratinici provenienti from the desquamazione of the leather capelluto. Until 1930 ALL of THE shampoos were at base of soap. Today generally a shampoo is compostoda: – A leading tensioattivo to action cleaning and foaming – a secondary tensioattivo and/either a sostenitoredi foam – an or more functional substances – a fragrant composition – preserving to guarantee a purezzamicrobica – an eventual coloring. The progress and the search cosmetic widespread haaggiunto other functions to the leading one (to
eliminate the filthy) of the shampoo: – To embellish the hair with l' contribution of unamaggior brillantezza, sweetness, districatura; – to adapt itself to the nature of the hair (buckets, until, fragile. . .); – To adapt itself with some inadequacies oalterazioni of the leather capelluto (dandruff, exceeded of sebaceous secretions); – to adapt itself to a special utilization (frequent shampoos); – to adapt itself to special utilizzatori (shampoos for bebé). The different objectives and the different particolaritàdanno you originate to different categories of shampoos, in type five: – Normal shampoos – cosmetic shampoos – shampoos treating specific – frequent shampoos – shampoos for bebé. Every shampoo then in function of the sostanzeutilizzate can be expressed to different pH: – Acid shampoos (inferior pH to 7) – neutral shampoos (pH around 7) – shampoos basici or alcalini (superior pH to
7). In base to the physical state of the expressed and of the tipodi confezionamento used, the shampoospossono to present itself in the form of liquidotrasparente, opaque liquid or pearly, cream, gel, dust, mousse.

HAIR SPRAY

The varnishes are produced destined to protect ead to increase the duration of a' acconciatura. A' high percentage of the varnishes incommercio (95%) I am in aerosol for ottenereun resulted secure and easy. L' effect varnishing, besides is nearly immediate date the rapidavolatilità of the solvents used. The present tendencies fashion however damage in rise lequotazioni of the varnishes "no gas" for the ecological loroeffetto and also economical. The synthetic resins employed nelleformulazioni I am some type:
VINILPIROLIDONE/ACETATO OF VINYL ACID CROTONICO/ACETATO OF VINYL
constituted that is to say from a rabid part (nonsolubile in water) and from an absorbent part. The uniform films formed from such resinedevono to be sufficiently elastic perdare forms and nervosità to the hair econtemporaneamente enough flexible perevitare their disruption that would carry allaformazione of the much inestetica polverinabianca. The concentration of the resin in a laccavaria in function of the type of hair to whose èdestinata and is included between 1,5% and 2,5%. To the varnishes strong "coiffanti", nowadays sipreferiscono varnishes more to read, chemantengono l' acconciatura without to remove it "freedom" and the shine of the
hair, and that sipossono to eliminate simply with qualchecolpo of brush. To obtain these results it is neutralized acid laparte of the copolimero of the resin with: – Been derived of lanolin – silicone – glicoli poliossietilenici – miristato of isopropile. The additional profumazione have to be reasonable, not to delay the speed of essicazione edevitare dell appeared it' back smell delleresine. The resin and the starts profitable that compongono lelacche are dissolved in alcohol (or solventeequivalente) and in type pressurized with gas inuna percentage that goes from 50 to 60% delformulato. You study special they were done on the valvoleerogatrici to avoid obstructions and perchédiano a perfect supply, concentration of every type nebulizzazionecon.

HAIR SPECIAL PRODUCTS

In the last years they are natimolti produced technical of aid to the traditional service dell' acconciatore. I am a lot of innnovativi for this not classificabilinelle categories "standard" of the professional products.

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